Baceno (VB), Italy
How to get there:
By train: Domodossola Station, Ferrovie dello Stato. Timetables: http://www.trenitalia.com/; www.ffs.ch
By bus: bus for Baceno, line Domodossola – Cascata del Toce. Timetables: www.vcoinbus.it
By car: A26 motorway to Gravellona Toce, then SS33 Sempione, after Domodossola take the exit for Valle Formazza and you will soon reach Baceno.
Easy circular itinerary. The area of Baceno and Croveo is famous because of its numerous cases of witchcraft that led to the stake mostly women and some men between the sixtieth and seventieth Century. Baceno’s Church is a National Monument and is considered one of the most beautiful churches of the Alps. In Croveo, the Church has a nice bell tower built on a big boulder from a landslide. A curious statue overlooking the entrance of the church remembers Don Ruscetta, Croveo’s parish priest in the fifties and sixties, known as the“prete viperaio”, the viper hunter priest.
From Baceno’s town hall square, go down to the sports field and once you’ve crossed Devero torrent continue straight in direction of Uresso (trail H00b). From here continue up to the bridge on the Devero torrent and go up to the ruins of the old group of houses of Cuggine. Leaving the houses on the right you start going up on a steep trail made of steps up to the main road Baceno – Goglio at the Great Chapel. Follow the road and at the junction indicating the bridge of the Baulina turn left to go and see the beautiful stone bridge and the giants potholes. Back on the road you’ll go up to Croveo’s square to visit the old winepress and the washhouse. In front of the Trattoria Cistella a trail (H00c) branches off passing behind the parish church crossing the village and then goes down hillside up to the bridge of the Giants Potholes, a spectacular place, recently enhanced by the creation of the “terrazzo belvedere” a terrace which offers a breathtaking view of the waterfall. After crossing the bridge get on the Via Arbola (trail H00) turn left on a mule track stretch with steps carved in the rock. The track continues hillside, cross the rio Ghendola and goes down to Graglia. Just before Graglia’s oratory enter the mule track on the right going down steep steps until reaching again the bridge of Baceno’s sports field and from here the centre of the village.
Where to eat:
Bar Trattoria Pizzeria Cistella (con affittacamere) – Frazione Croveo, Baceno VB, (IT) tel +39 0324 62085